A family trip to Baja

After an incredible family getaway to Baja Mexico, Our Client Services Director, Lucy, shares her experience of getting closer to the aquatic world below the surface with Baja Expeditions.

I’ve travelled across mainland Mexico twice before - I love the country, the food, the history and the people of course. But I’d never considered a trip to the Baja peninsula. I’d heard about the migratory grey whales but it seemed such a long way to go just for that. Especially with kids in tow. Would there be enough to do to make the trip worthwhile? 

You only have to speak to Mike Lever from Baja Expeditions for a few minutes to be completely hooked. His genuine passion for the destination is obvious and his marketing videos are like Blue Planet clips. My offspring are aspiring marine biologists so I knew they’d love it. “You just have to come and see it for yourself," he said. So, I immediately booked a flight! 

First surprise - the journey wasn’t arduous at all. There are numerous routes into Baja from the UK. Our Aeromexico flight from London was great - and after a very short layover in Mexico City - we had arrived. Our boutique hotel ‘Cathedral’ in La Paz was the perfect place to unwind after a long journey and the staff there welcomed us with open arms. I’m not sure what I was expecting of La Paz, but what I got was a quaint small town vibe, beautiful authentic plazas, cool seafront restaurants and incredible sunsets.  

Sailing in the Sea of Cortez

We woke up the next morning and headed to the marina where the crew of the Mango Wind were waiting for us. Greeted like a long lost family, the skipper; Rafael, chef Mafi and marine biologist guide, Lola, made us instantly feel at home. The kids started exploring their bunks in the 45 foot catamaran, not quite believing that this would be their home for the next four days! 

We set sail and immediately our shoulders relaxed as we breathed in the sea air and enjoyed the warmth of the sun. The kids lay in the trampolines at the front of the boat, hypnotically watching the waves for signs of life and we didn’t have to wait long... Screams of excitement came quickly at the sight of dolphins dancing at the bow.  

We headed up the Sea of Cortez in search of orcas and mobula rays who migrate along the coast. The boat is assisted by a spotter plane who regularly feeds information back on what is about and where.  

Just as we were about to anchor for the night, the sea appeared to change. It was almost as if it was boiling, there was so much movement underneath the surface. Then, comically a mobula ray suddenly flung itself high into the air and flipped itself over before belly-flopping onto the surface! Suddenly, the rest of the group followed suit, gleefully pumping their little bodies to see who could jump the highest - they seemed to be having almost as much fun as we were! 

The next morning we prepared to get into the water to swim with the rays.  All encounters are carefully planned so as not to disturb or interfere with marine life. We were the only boat around for miles and Lola guided us into the water gently and safely for an awe-inspiring private viewing of hundreds of rays as they glided past.

The next couple of days on the boat were spent exploring, both underwater on snorkel trips and by kayak to insanely beautiful deserted islands. We never saw another human - we couldn’t believe we had this picture perfect paradise to ourselves - but were regularly accompanied by sealions and dolphins swimming alongside. One morning, whilst eating breakfast, we were also joined by a family of humpback whales splashing in the distance.

Mafi produced food that was truly outstanding and catered for all - vegetarian, fresh fish and certified crowd pleasers for the kids. Beautifully prepared snacks awaited us after each excursion, while cocktails accompanied every picture-perfect sunset.

When we weren’t in the water with Lola, Skipper Rafael patiently taught my son how to sail. The smile on his face as he took the helm for the first time is still etched on my memory! 

After a truly blissful four days, we were so sad to leave - we had become one big family and frankly had gotten very used to our millionaire lifestyle! But we had other adventures to pursue.

Overlanding through the desert

Most visitors to the San Ignacio lagoon camp fly in by a private charter. It only takes a few hours from Cabo and it’s an easy transfer. But I like it a bit more adventurous so decided to drive there instead! Mike recommended a Tacoma truck (it was enormous!) but thankfully it more than ably tackled the challenges of offroading in the Mexican desert. The first thing we noticed as we left La Paz was the endless scenery. Like stars of our own western movie, we traversed vast gaping canyons, through narrow mountain passes, gasping at miles upon miles of giant cacti and sweeping skies. 

After six hours, we reached the delightful town of Loretto. An impossibly pretty place with historic squares, a mission church and quaint alfresco local restaurants. 

But the reason we had come here was to get out on the water again. Both my kids are keen divers and Loreto has some great dive sites suitable for all abilities. We headed to La Lobera, a volcanic island offering dramatic underwater scenery including walls, rock formations and a very friendly colony of sea lions. Once again, there were no other dive boats around and we had another incredible marine encounter, just for the three of us. 

The next morning we hit the road again. We were just filling up at the gas station and a local cowboy on horseback strutted through, waving hello at the kids! You don’t get that on a private plane!!

Eventually we reached San Ignacio and this is where the road ran out and the desert properly kicked in. Soaring temperatures, vultures circling overhead and otherworldly pools of sulphur made it seem like we were on another planet as we bounced across the sand dunes in search of the camp! It was absolutely exhilarating.

San Ignacio Lagoon

Finally we found the airstrip and the tented camp in the distance. We were met warmly by the Baja Ex team - who are nearly all marine biologists, here to study the whales. “You must be hungry” someone said and led us to a dining tent that resembled a luxurious African safari camp. An exquisite three course lunch appeared out of the desert! 

Our tented accommodation was so swanky it made us all jump onto our beds in glee! Electric blankets, hot rainforest showers, comfy sofas and beautiful furnishings. Then we went over to the well stocked ‘bar tent’ where a full size pool table kept the kids entertained - as did the nightly talks by marine biologists who gave us fascinating insights into the habitats and habits of the grey whales we were about to witness. 

Early the next morning, equipped with lifejackets and wellies, we were introduced to our boat driver and marine biologist guide before setting off across the lagoon. I was surprised to see that there didn’t seem to be anyone else around and the boats were tiny - we had the boat to ourselves. The schedule is strict as everything here is geared towards the protection of the whales - allotted one hour time slots, three times a day, minimise our intrusion into their space. 

I’d seen videos of the whales coming up to the boats, but nothing prepares you for when a giant creature makes a beeline for you! They really do seem to enjoy saying hello - popping out of the water and eyeballing you from just a few feet. The whales here are mostly females coming to birth. Normally in nature you wouldn’t go near a new mother with her young, but the biggest sign that they are comfortable with us being there happened when a mother actually pushed her curious baby towards the boat.

The marine biologist explained that this shows supreme trust. If the mother was unhappy in any way she would have put herself between us and the boat to protect her baby - who was now having so much fun splashing around us and blowing giant playful bubbles at my daughter.

You have to pinch yourself at what you are witnessing - these are huge wild animals and yet you feel like there is an instant deep emotional connection between you. The kids couldn’t believe their eyes! We were squealing with delight and I can now understand why these unique interactions generally move people to tears. 

There are lots of things to do at the camp. There is a football pitch and a nearby turtle sanctuary to visit, stargazing, or simply just switching off and enjoying the silence of the desert. But we never got tired of taking the opportunity to go out on the water. Aside from the whales there are also lots of other things to see on the lagoon, including birds, turtles and dolphins. One day we were surrounded on all sides by a giant pod of up to a thousand dolphins!

Finally, after four sublime days in camp it was time to say goodbye and head back to La Paz. As we were toasting the last amazing sunset over the lagoon, I’d asked the kids if they’d had a nice time. My 12 year old son poetically described it in one word: “life-changing”. My 14 year old daughter asked with tears in her eyes, “How on earth are we ever going to top this trip mum?”. Mmm, quite! If you are looking to ‘make memories’ on a family vacation - and have experiences that will last a lifetime, this is one that can never, ever, be beaten. 

If you're searching for an expert, local DMC who knows the area inside out and genuinely puts responsible travel at the heart of their operations, there is no one better than Baja Expeditions.

A Baja adventure travel pioneer, they have been offering unforgettable experiences since 1974. Marine safaris are paired with glamping or luxury beach camps, a fleet of liveaboards, fine dining, impeccable service and a firm commitment to environmental and species preservation. 

For more information, please get in touch with georgia@theadventureconnection.com