Dominica: The Caribbean, but not as you know it

When I used to think of the Caribbean, the phrase that usually came to mind was always ‘fly and flop’. Beach. Sun lounger. Cocktail. Repeat. But I quickly found out during my recent Fam Trip that Dominica is not that Caribbean.

Known as ‘The Nature Isle’, this is where travellers come to move. To explore. To feel small beneath towering rainforests and powerful waterfalls. If your clients are looking for adventure, immersion and something that feels wonderfully untamed, then this island should be at the top of your offering - especially now it’s easier to reach than ever, with same-day connections from the UK and Europe via Antigua, Barbados and St. Maarten. Plus there's a new airport under construction as we speak!

Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of visiting Dominica on an unforgettable Fam Trip, hosted by Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort and Secret Bay Resort, giving me a first-hand glimpse of what this island has to offer. Together, the properties reflect the balance that makes Dominica so special: wild exploration and deep restoration.

Whether your clients are solo adventure seekers, travelling with a group of like-minded explorers, on a family holiday or a couple looking for a romantic escape, Dominica truly has something for everyone.

Read on to find out more about what makes this island so special and the perfect addition to your portfolio!

Waterfalls galore

With 365 rivers cutting through the island, waterfalls are everywhere and the beauty of Dominica is that there’s a trail leading to a variety of them, suitable for almost every fitness level.

Middleham Falls was one of my favourites and is reached via a muddy, undulating hike through dense jungle. Taking around three hours, it’s not overly technical, but you’ll want a decent pair of walking shoes and a good sense of adventure. The reward? A dramatic cascade plunging into a cool emerald pool that makes every step worthwhile. You can even swim in the waters beneath the falls if you dare!

On our hike to Middleham, our guide Ali was incredible at pointing out a variety of different trees and plants, many of which are used for medicinal purposes on the island. It was fascinating to learn how much the local people value what nature provides and how it’s still used daily to help with headaches, cramps, general health, sleep and so much more.

Trafalgar Falls is another one we visited. Compared to Middleham, Trafalgar Falls is far more accessible. A shorter walk of roughly 10 - 15 minutes brings you to the viewpoint of the twin falls - Mother and Father - crashing down the cliffside. If you’re feeling adventurous you can scramble across the rocks towards the base where there are natural hot mineral pools hidden between the boulders. It made for a really nice, relaxed start to the day before heading off for more exploring.

Then there’s Syndicate Falls, which felt much quieter and more tucked away. The trails here are gentler and shaded by towering trees, making it a lovely place to slow down and enjoy the rainforest at a different pace. It’s also a great spot for birdwatching and we saw one of Dominica’s famous parrots flying overhead.

Boiling Lake hike

Summarising our hike to Boiling Lake is actually quite difficult. I both absolutely loved it and wanted to quit about ten thousand times along the way!

This is not a gentle stroll through the rainforest. It’s an arduous, full-day expedition that is definitely better suited to the more experienced, fit hiker. 

The trail climbs and dips relentlessly and you descend steep steps only to climb straight back up again. You cross rivers, navigate slippery rocks and hike through constantly changing terrain. Don’t get me wrong, it’s absolutely stunning. Even when the trail gets tough, you’re distracted by the lush green surroundings and the sounds of birds and frogs echoing through the trees.

At one point, the landscape suddenly transforms into the surreal Valley of Desolation, where steam hisses from the earth and the ground feels alive beneath your feet. The valley is full of bubbling mud pots, hot springs and sulphur vents, making it feel like you’ve stepped onto another planet.

Our guide told us you can actually boil an egg in some of the hot pools here. I also learned that the sulphur-rich mud works as a natural face mask and is said to be great for the skin which is why I didn’t object when our guide scooped up some of the warm volcanic mud and painted it onto our faces! Whether that’s true or not, it definitely felt like the most adventurous facial I’ve ever had.

Then it was time to push on again, crossing more rivers (wet water shoes or waterproof footwear are definitely essential here too). 

When you finally reach the Boiling Lake - a cauldron of grey-blue water bubbling from volcanic heat deep below - the ache of your muscles quickly fades into something else entirely: pure awe. It’s quite a sight to see!

You also feel a real sense of accomplishment when you complete this hike. It pushes you physically, but it also reminds you of the raw power of the island. Dominica doesn’t hand you its greatest sights easily. You earn them.

Titou Gorge

One of the most unique experiences for me has to be Titou Gorge. It is one of around ten locations on the island where scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed, and it’s easy to see why filmmakers chose it.

Steep rock walls rise dramatically on either side, with cool, clear water running through the narrow channel below. The gorge itself is easy to get to by car and is a great option if you're looking for something a little different. But there’s a catch - the only way to reach the waterfall hidden at the end is to plunge into the refreshingly cold water and swim upstream through the gorge.

Our guide, Martin, got us there early and suited us up with life jackets before we took a big jump into the cool water and began swimming through the gorge towards the waterfall. Unfortunately for us, it had been raining so much that the current was too strong to make it all the way to the falls.

That said, swimming between the towering rock walls and then leaning back to float as the current gently carried us back through the gorge was incredibly tranquil and still an unforgettable experience that I would 100% recommend.

Slowing it down a little

If you’re looking for a slower pace and experiences that don’t leave you with sore legs at the end of the day, there are plenty of options for that too.

The whale watching tour we did, for example, departs directly from Fort Young Hotel on the south of the island and runs twice a week on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It’s a relaxed but fun way to experience Dominica’s waters and spot some of the gentle giants who live below the surface. The boat, which is one of three boats owned by Fort Young, wasn't crowded at all and the crew were fantastic - constantly scanning the ocean for movement of the resident sperm whales, answering all of our questions and sharing insights about the island’s marine life.

Dominica is one of the few places in the world where sperm whales live year-round, so sightings are pretty much guaranteed - plus heading out onto the calm Caribbean Sea with lush green mountains rising dramatically behind you is an experience in itself! We were lucky enough to spot whales almost straight away and watched from a respectable distance as two adult whales and a baby cruised along the surface for a few minutes before diving below, giving us a magnificent final flash of their tails as they disappeared.

For those wanting an even more immersive encounter, it’s also possible to snorkel with the sperm whales, although this must be arranged separately (the team at Fort Young can help with this) and requires a special permit due to the island’s strict conservation rules.

Further up the coast, near the town of Portsmouth, drifting along the Indian River is an equally captivating experience but in a completely different way. This is one of the widest and longest rivers on the island and is surrounded by dense mangroves that form a natural tunnel as you move through the water. Boats here are guided using oars rather than motors, which keeps everything quiet and peaceful and allows you to really take in the wildlife along the riverbanks.

Our local guide, Fire, was quite a character! As he gently steered us down the river he told us he had grown up on, he shared stories and pointed out interesting things to spot along the way.

The river has also had its moment on the big screen. Tucked along its banks is the famous “Pirates of the Caribbean house,” a wooden hut used as a filming location in Dead Man’s Chest, which was pretty cool to drift up to with the theme tune playing in my head.

The flavours of Dominica

In my opinion, you can’t talk about Dominica without talking about food and about what grows here. It’s like a tropical adventure for your tastebuds!

Fruit hangs from trees everywhere. Mangoes, guava, papaya, passionfruit, bananas and as I mentioned before, every plant, tree and herb seems to play a role in daily life, whether in cooking, natural remedies or traditional practices. 

Dominican cuisine is a vibrant mix of Creole flavours and fresh local ingredients. Freshly caught fish features heavily, often grilled or served in rich, flavourful stews. Plantains appear in countless forms (fried, mashed or baked, you name it they do it) and hearty dishes like goat steak, cooked with rich Creole spices are popular favourites on the island. 

Fresh juices made from fruit picked just hours earlier are sold everywhere, and the flavours are delicious! Not overcomplicated or overly styled, just fresh and deeply rooted in the island itself.

That said, for me, nothing quite beat the food at Secret Bay.

The resort has its own GROW Garden, where many of the herbs, fruits and vegetables used in the kitchen are harvested just steps away from where they’re served. The culinary programme is led by Michelin-star-trained chefs, who combine local produce with incredible creativity to produce dishes that feel both refined and deeply connected to Dominica.

It was the perfect reminder that in Dominica, some of the best experiences don’t just happen on the trails or in the ocean, they happen at the table too.

The people make the place

Beyond the landscapes and activities, what really stayed with me about Dominica was the people. Dominicans are warm, open and genuinely curious. On multiple occasions, people approached us simply to chat - asking how we were enjoying their island, offering recommendations and sharing stories about their favourite things to do.

There’s a visible pride here and the passion people have for their home feels truly authentic. Alongside that pride is a deep respect for nature and an understanding of both its beauty and its power. It’s clear that life on this island is shaped by the landscape and their connection to it.

A great way to see this connection between people and the land is by visiting the Kalinago Territory on the island’s east coast. This region is home to the Kalinago people, the Caribbean’s last remaining indigenous community. We joined a guided tour of the territory which offered a glimpse into their traditions, history and way of life - from traditional crafts and basket weaving to how natural materials from the surrounding rainforest are still used in everyday life.

It’s experiences like this that give Dominica its real depth. The island isn’t just beautiful, it’s rich in culture, heritage and stories.

Where to stay: Two sides of the same island

Split over the north and south of the island, Fort Young and Secret Bay offer two very different, yet perfectly complementary, ways to experience Dominica.

If you’re looking for a basecamp for adventure right in the thick of it, then look no further than Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort. Built within the walls of a 17th-century fort and set right on the waterfront on the outskirts of Roseau, this hotel blends heritage, comfort and exploration in one unique setting.

From here, guests can head out whale watching, explore waterfalls and rainforest trails, or dive straight into Dominica’s spectacular underwater landscapes from the hotel’s own PADI-certified dive centre. There’s also an amazing gift shop on site as well as an art gallery showcasing only local artists!

Many rooms boast balconies overlooking the Caribbean Sea, providing the perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploring.

Meanwhile, Secret Bay, in the north of the island, is where you retreat. Perched on a dramatic clifftop, this exclusive all-villa sanctuary feels secluded in the most luxurious way.

Featuring 26 award-winning villas, each with a private plunge pool and dedicated villa host, the resort blends eco-luxury with a deep immersion in nature. Tucked among the trees, the villas offer complete privacy, where mornings are slow, views stretch endlessly across the ocean and time seems to soften.

Guests can unwind at the treetop spa, practice yoga by the river, explore hidden beaches and waterfalls with local guides, or enjoy hyperlocal gourmet cuisine overlooking the sea. There’s still plenty to do both in and out of the resort (including all the activities mentioned above), but you definitely get the urge to slow things down here.

Sustainability is also at the heart of the experience, with electric vehicles used throughout the resort, responsibly sourced materials and strong support for local conservation and community projects.

Together, they reflect the balance that makes Dominica so special: wild exploration and deep restoration.

If you’d like to find out more about Fort Young and Secret Bay, get in touch with Sarah at sarah@theadventureconnection.com